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Cortina is another of the classic Alp resorts. It is a beautiful city that has an English touch to it: e.g., there are “tea rooms”.
Compared to Canzei Cortina appears as very snobbish. There are plenty of fur coats, extravagant cars, and expensive hotels and shops. It is a place where the rich go to play and show themselves off. |
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Camping was maddeningly expensive. For our tiny mountain tent we were made to pay as if we had a large car with a caravan. Cortina has MTB-potential. However, the local authorities do their best to make it difficult. Many routes we would have liked to do had signs up banning cyclists. You are allowed to climb, hammer bolts into the rocks, and to walk with heavy boots anywhere, but not to ride a cycle.
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North face of the Lavaredo Towers
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Abseilpiste on the Great Tower |
We
also did some rides on the west side of Cortina. Our plan was to cycle
from the Falzarego Pass through Forcella Travenanzes and round the
Tofana Massif via the Travenza Valley. Again we were met by no cycling signs. We
turned back and bet on Forcella Nuvoblao, a steep climb to a Rifuge
Cinque Torre on a narrow paved road.
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Then one climbs on dirt road, plenty of rocks and some rather steep sections to the Nuvoblao Pass (2416). On the other side is a steep and technical gravel road down to the Rifuge Fedare. There was not any singletrack, but it was certainly mountainbiking.
Then
one climbs the Giau Pass. On the other side of the
watershed one descends
rapidly back to Cortina on a good road.
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Nuvolao pass, to the right |
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Tofana from Nuvoblao |
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As we did not find any singletrack
we do not bother to make a map. When, we realised that mountainbikers
were regarded as undesirables we left and went back across the
PordoiPass to
Canazei and on to mountain bike friendly Lago di Garda.

Passo Pordoi
Would we
go back to Cortina?
Yes, if we are multi-millionaires when we are eighty four we might fit
in. For
mountain biking there are many places that are far more friendly in Italy.